To truly understand how we have selvage denim in 2018, one must roll back in time to the early 1900s. The American textile industry had migrated to the South from New England during this period, reaching out for the competitive advantage of close proximity to the cotton fields and the abundant supply of motivated labor force. Red brick mills were popping up all over the South as fast as they could be constructed.
The Cone brothers, Moses and Caesar, being titans of the Southern textile industry, built the White Oak plant for the express purpose of manufacturing indigo denim. By 1908, Cone was the world’s largest producer of indigo denim. In fact, the White Oak plant is credited with the development of the process of continuously dyeing cotton yarns with indigo. The process is known as “long chain” or the rope dyeing method, which allowed Cone to dye and subsequently weave very large amount of denim with superior product quality under one roof.
Now enters the Draper Company into this story. Produced in the Draper foundries located in Massachusetts and South Carolina, the “fly shuttle” loom was considered to be the state-of-the-art weaving machine of its time. It is from the fly shuttle loom that the selvage or “self-edge” denim was born. Common in the way the filling yarn was thrown across the dyed denim warp, the loom produced two clean finished edges. The distinctive colored threads woven into both selvage ends were actually the mill's internal way of style identification. As there were multiple styles running at any given time, the probability of mixing styles was common and problematic for the mill.
Fast forward 100 years, by using a specialized and unique selvage weaving loom, our selvage denims have the trademark narrow width, rugged appearance and the signature colored thread selvage markers, but with improved fabric quality.
One might ask how the selvage “edges” in the denim find their way into the finished jean rather than being left on the cutting room floor. The answer is simple, because the edges of the selvage denim were finished and the necessity for speed, efficiency and cost control, demanded by the cutters, pattern makers, and engineers found it was a cost saving measure to just incorporate the edges in the pattern of the jean itself. Presto!
The desire to be efficient and save money would one day live on and be reborn to create an entire category of high-end denim known today as authentic selvage denim.
ASD is the only official distributor of Cone Selvage Denims in the USA.
Our denims are first quality, made in Cone's most advanced Denim Mill. The denims listed here are made to exacting standards of quality, signature Cone styling; know the world over for superior results in either the "Raw" state or after garment washing.
Selvage denims, sold by ASD are woven of “Ring Spun" yarns, rope dyed with Indigo dye stuffs and woven on specialized looms made for only weaving Selvage denim. The unique appearance and character is all Cone.
All of our denims are ready for cutting and come packaged in the original mill packaging with the correct identifying piece tickets.
At ASD we are happy to sell one roll or 100 rolls, based on your fabric needs. We do not cut length from individual rolls, but we will inform you of the roll sizes within our inventory and allow you to make the best purchase decision. We have many smaller size rolls as well as larger size rolls available in inventory.
All rolls shipped from our warehouse located at the Cone Denim, Carlisle Facility in Carlisle South Carolina, USA.
At ASD we only post the yardages that are already in our warehouse and open for sale. Sometimes, sales are booked at a pace that yardage can drastically change at a moment's notice. It is our policy to update yardages every 24 hours. Properly approved to ship orders, will dispatch within 48 hours, based on the routing specified by the customer. All orders are sold “ex-works” facility in Carlisle, South Carolina, USA.
ASD is committed to providing the most competitively priced selvage denims in America. Our prices will not change daily, weekly, or monthly. Denim prices however are subject to changing market conditions, such as raw materials like cotton fiber or other competitive factors. ASD reserves the right to change prices at will.
ASD is pleased to send swatches (size tbc), free of charge via USPS on request to assist your decision making process. Sample yardage is not available; the next step is to purchase a minimum roll size from inventory.
It is our policy to have happy, repeat customers at ASD. We will always respond to questions and concerns in the field. As a fabric wholesale distributor, we cannot approve general retail type returns or purchasing errors unless they were the responsibility of ASD.